V9 Fragile Tension & Variations

Facing Fer Irie head straight right and you will quickly see this problem. There are two starts, a mid start and a low start. The mid start is called High Tension, and sit starts on an obvious rail in the face. The low starts on the bottom of the arete in a hole and is called Fragile Tension. There is also a variation called No Tension, and something called Grand Tension? That may be the full Fragile Tension sit. Hard to tell what is what in this hole.

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High Tension  V7/8

FA  ::  Dave Graham?

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misnamed in video

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Fragile Tension  V9

FA  ::  Dave Graham

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starts 1:48

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No Tension  V8

“Start sitting with right hand on pinch and left hand on gaston, do a hard move to the Grand Tension start hold, then bail out right.”

“Starts second lowest RH pinch and LH gaston at the same level.”

“One move wonder.”

FA  ::  Kaelen Williams

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